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In the mirror, I can see myself in oversized shimmering pantaloons, seen exclusively in my view. Kids sit in a rock pool acting as mermaids, while in the next room sits a chatting legume in a display case, next to a imposing mound of bedding. It represents the world of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), a leading nineteenth-century's highly cherished writers. I'm visiting this Danish town, on the island of Funen in the southern part of the Danish kingdom, to discover the writer's timeless impact in his native city 150 years after his demise, and to experience a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Exhibition: The Andersen Museum

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the city’s cultural center dedicated to the writer, incorporating his original residence. An expert explains that in earlier iterations of the museum there was minimal emphasis on his fairytales. His personal history was examined, but The Little Mermaid were nowhere to be found. For visitors who visit this place in search of narrative enchantment, it was a little lacking.

The renovation of downtown Odense, rerouting a main thoroughfare, made it possible to rethink how the renowned native could be celebrated. A prestigious architectural challenge awarded the architects from Japan Kengo Kuma and Associates the project, with the curators’ new approach at the heart of the structure. The unique wooden museum with connected curving spaces opened to great fanfare in 2021. “We’ve tried to create a space where we don’t talk about Andersen, but we talk like him: with wit, satire and viewpoint,” notes the representative. The landscape design take this approach: “The outdoor area for wanderers and for large beings, it's created to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he says, an objective realized by clever planting, manipulating height, proportion and numerous twisting trails in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Writer's Legacy

The author penned several personal accounts and frequently contradicted himself. The museum adopts this philosophy seriously; often the perspectives of his companions or fragments of correspondence are presented to subtly challenge the writer's personal account of events. “The writer is the narrator, but he's untrustworthy,” explains the representative. The result is a compelling swift exploration of the author's biography and art, mental approaches and most popular narratives. It is provocative and playful, for mature visitors and kids, with a extra underground fantasy realm, Ville Vau, for the children.

Discovering the City

In the real world, the modest urban center of Odense is delightful, with historic pathways and historic timber buildings finished in bright colours. The author's presence is ubiquitous: the street signals feature the writer with his distinctive characteristic hat, bronze footmarks give a complimentary pedestrian route, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Annually in August this dedication culminates with the regular storytelling event, which celebrates the his influence through art, performance, theatre and music.

Recently, the multi-day festival had numerous performances, the majority were complimentary. During my time in this place, I come across painted stilt-walkers, fantastical beings and an author double telling stories. I experience contemporary performances and witness an amazing nocturnal display with athletic artists descending from the municipal structure and dangling from a construction equipment. Upcoming events in the coming months are talks, creative sessions for all ages and, expanding the oral history further than the writer, the city’s annual Magic Days festival.

Every excellent enchanted locations deserve a castle, and the island contains numerous historic homes and manor houses across the island

Pedaling Through History

Similar to much of the country, bikes are the ideal method to navigate in this town and a “bike path” meanders through the urban core. From Hotel Odeon, I pedal to the public waterside bathing area, then beyond the city for a loop around Stige Island, a small island linked by a road to the larger island. City residents have outdoor meals here after work, or take pleasure in a quiet hour fishing, water sports or bathing.

Returning to the city, I eat at a local eatery, where the menu is inspired by the writer's motifs and tales. The literary work the national ode is featured at the restaurant, and manager the host shares excerpts, translated into English, as he introduces the meal. Such encounters frequent in my time in Odense, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it appears narrating is always available here.

Historic Estate Tours

All good enchanted locations need a palace, and this region features numerous historic homes and stately homes across the island. Traveling briefly from town, I visit the historic fortress, Europe’s best-preserved moated palace. Although large sections are open to visitors, Egeskov is also the private residence of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his wife, the princess. I ponder if she can feel a small legume through a stack of {mattresses