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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end venues. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.